A Tale of Two Cities

As most of my teaching has been with older students and adults, and my typical school day runs from 3-8 pm, I've had plenty of time to discover A Coruña. Most mornings, I've taken the bus into town and visited one of the many - and I mean many - museums, casas museos and art galleries. Often, I've been the only person there, apart from the staff. At the Casa des Ciencas, I amused the cleaner by running round all the interactive exhibits, pushing and pulling levers like a four year-old.

I've discovered that A Coruña was originally two cities: the old town, where the nobles and wealthy bourgeoisie lived behind the medieval walls, and the Pescadería, where the fishermen and traders tried to eke out a living. I like the fact that Maria Pita, the city’s heroine, had humble origins, but gradually rose socially by marrying four times, each husband being a little higher in the social hierarchy.  

Nowadays, the 'two cities' take a different form. About twice a week, the cruise ships dock in A Coruña's busy port, the huge edifices dwarfing the harbour front. They offload a small city-full of tourists into the old town, more than doubling the local inhabitants in one go. Dressed hopefully in summer clothes, while the locals are still muffled in scarves and winter coats, the visitors are immediately recognisable as they crowd the old town and local bars.

Cruise ship in A Coruña harbour

Today's visit had an unexpectedly feminist theme. Near the Obelisco, I noticed a demonstration gathering: mainly young women carrying banners, with slogans such as, 'No es no' (no means no), 'Mi ropa, mi vida' (my clothes, my life). As it hadn't started, I walked on to the old town, to the casa museo of Emilia Pardo Bazan, a 19th century novelist, who was a strong supporter of women's rights and education. Finally, I found the beautifully restored casa museo of Maria Pita, who defended the city against Francis Drake in 1589.

On the bus back to school were three girls from one of my 4th year classes. They told me that they'd just been part of the demonstration I'd seen earlier, which was against the acquittal of the so-called 'Manada' (wolf-pack), five men who were accused of raping a young woman during the Pamplona bull-running. The girls were in their school uniforms and had skipped class to take part. We got into a lively conversation about feminism which lasted the whole journey back. Their commitment and enthusiasm were really heart-warming.

Demonstration against the Manada verdict

Now the weather is warming up here, it will quite a wrench to leave. Liceo la Paz has been a great place to teach, my colleagues have been good company, and there are still many new places to discover in A Coruña.