I’m ravenous. Skin
still sticky from the last flight into La Coruna. I’m surrounded by people I
only met a few days ago, yet there’s already a warm sense of companionship
among us all. Laid out in front of me; a welcome dinner. I eye up the tortilla
and begin to devour it. It’s served alongside empanadas - a Galician classic
stuffed with tuna, some plump mussels and thin slices of local cured sausage
and cheese. Every mouthful reminds me I’m back in Spain, here to teach in my
favourite place in the world.
There’s a bar
afterwards. Giddy, satisfied smiles. Jokes about lesson planning, war stories
from CELTA. When they finally begin to clear the terrace, it’s early in the
morning. It’s very early.
The cafeteria at the
residence occasionally opens as a restaurant for locals in our neighbourhood.
There’s a reason for this: the food is good. Sunday lunch is pork stew with
fried potatoes and salad. There’s no messing around here. The pork is tender, heady
with garlic and herbs, and it helps revive senses that may have been lost the
previous evening.
By 10am on Monday I’m
already teaching. There wasn’t the promised school tour, just a brief
introduction to my mentor, Sergio, and then straight into class. They’re
working to a syllabus I’ve never been briefed on, there’s a mention of past
simple but other than that I’m flapping in the deep end. I try to remember the
students’ names but nothing seems to go in. They all beam at me like they’ve
never seen an English person before. Eleven-year-old Spanish kids are fun, curious
and in relentless need of stimulus. I’m incessantly reminding myself that this
is their world and I’m the one entering it. Sergio has them under control and
this thought composes me until he tells me that he’s leaving for England the
next day. I brush this aside until I ‘m reunited with class Quinta B the
following day. Monday had been a breeze, nothing but a sea of calm. I’d been
with them the day before. They’d sat down at their desks; they’d talked when
their names were called out. But not on Tuesday. Not without Sergio.
There were three
teachers in that Tuesday class: myself, my colleague Josh and the actual
teacher who was looking out for us. It was never to be a fair battle and the
kids defiantly won. All I can vaguely recall are the sounds and an incident
with a pair of scissors. And whilst I may be exaggerating here a little bit for
effect, Quinta B and I are now buddies. They’ve got the best kids, some
difficult ones yes, but they all sit next to someone who wants to learn and do
the right thing. Whether they actually sit at their desks or on top of them is
another matter. One of them told me that he doesn’t like to work because people
think he’s just silly all the time. But he knows English and when we speak
together he’s actually damn good at it.
Friday comes all too
quickly. As school winds down the weekend approaches, I find myself with a free
period, sandwiched around our long siesta break. I grab a buddy and soon we’re
gulping down a delicious lentil stew, savouring tasty morsels of pulpo (octopus) and
mopping up the olive oil from the freshest of anchovies with a thick crusty
loaf. It’s not been a bad first week in La Coruna. Not a bad week at all.

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